The Anthology has an fascinating shirt providing that I solely actually found not too long ago. Maybe as a result of it’s not that clearly flagged up on the web site.
You will get most of their shirts to order, choosing a measurement that determines the chest and the collar however then specifying the waist, sleeve size and physique size. For somebody like me, who is a reasonably common measurement however typically needs a slimmer waist and an extended physique than commonplace, it might be very helpful.
Supply takes three weeks, which is quick sufficient for most individuals and definitely faster than anybody doing made-to-measure. Though that is the opposite manner – the damaging manner – to see their system: little or no is held as inventory, nearly every little thing must be made to order. So there’s a trade-off there between velocity and customisation.
There are another features to this – upsides and drawbacks – however let’s first cowl what I ordered and the way it turned out.
The Anthology do trunk reveals in London and New York, and at these they may fortunately measure you for a shirt (MTO or bespoke). However I needed to strive simply the net service, with none assist.
I made a decision to strive the ‘deep olive one-piece collar’ shirt, as I actually like that deep murky shade of inexperienced. I did this again in the summertime by the best way, so linen wasn’t a loopy selection.
I took the bespoke shirt of mine that I favored the match of finest, and in contrast the measurements to these on the Anthology web site. That is what I discovered:
Collar/chest:
- My bespoke shirt had a measurement of 39.5cm on the collar and 112cm within the chest
- This doesn’t completely align with The Anthology’s block, as they’ve 39cm and 40cm collar choices, not one in between
- I made a decision to go together with the 40cm collar, with a view to maintain the 112cm chest of my bespoke. I wouldn’t put on this type with a tie anyway, so the collar is much less necessary
- There isn’t a potential to change the collar or chest in relation to one another although, so others might must compromise extra
Waist:
- For the 40cm collar I picked, the default waist measurement was 110cm, which is strictly what my bespoke one measured
- This was fascinating, as a result of as we’ve lined on PS earlier than, a number of years in the past I might have gone for extra like 104cm
- So there was no want to change the waist, however I might have elevated or decreased it by 4cm if I needed
- It’s attainable to vary the proportions greater than this, The Anthology defined to me afterwards, however they restrict it to 4cm as few folks want greater than that, and in that case they would like the shopper to get in contact with them to verify they’re measuring accurately
- The scale chart on each web page reveals the place the measurements needs to be taken, and there’s a video strolling by way of the method. Though it might be clearer precisely the place the waist needs to be measured
Sleeve:
- That is the place issues obtained a bit odd. My bespoke shirt measured 66cm and the Anthology’s default was 62cm, so I used to be on the absolute most of what might be added
- I do know I’m not that totally different to common, so I used to be apprehensive I’d measured one thing flawed (regardless of going off the scale chart). So at this level I obtained in contact with them to verify I used to be doing it proper
- They confirmed I used to be, and it was simply that the boundaries had been partly primarily based on Asian sizing, the place the arms are somewhat shorter
- I suppose this might be communicated higher, and it means some folks within the West will probably be past the utmost sleeve size. However the crew had been useful and as talked about earlier than, might add any quantity required
Shoulder:
- This was 49cm on my bespoke, and 46.7cm on the Anthology default
- Just like the chest, this may’t be altered, so I did take into account sizing up, however ultimately determined towards it because the seam place makes much less of a distinction than the chest measurement
Size:
- My bespoke was 81cm within the again size, and the Anthology default 78cm
- So that is one space the place I clearly profit from the system, even with western sizing – my top (184cm) means numerous ready-made shirts are brief on me. I added the 3cm I needed
The ensuing shirt, three weeks later, was precisely what I ordered. I additionally favored the color and different features of the type. The one factor I didn’t like a lot was the one-piece collar – not that there was something flawed with The Anthology’s model, however I’ve barely gone off the collar usually.
One-piece collars had been fascinating after they first turned fashionable, and the enchantment of one thing subtly uncommon, rolling open in a clean unbroken curve, stays. Have a look at my previous one from Marol, and I feel you may see how effectively this works.
However there are a some disadvantages. The again of the placket has a behavior of flipping out (see picture beneath) and when worn on their very own, with no jacket, one-piece collars are rather less refined.
The Anthology’s model is best than most, however my view immediately is that they’re a pleasant various to have within the wardrobe – a second white-linen shirt when you have already got one white-linen shirt – somewhat than a default. Given I’m solely going to have one olive linen shirt, I’d desire it to have a daily collar.
This brings us onto the opposite drawback of this service, which is that The Anthology don’t supply a wide array of traditional, on a regular basis shirts. Sure, there’s a white and blue oxford, and some blue-stripe poplins, however I couldn’t get my olive linen in a daily collar, the white unfold collar is a cotton-linen somewhat than a pure cotton, the pure cotton some extent collar.
In comparison with somebody like Anglo-Italian or Natalino, The Anthology’s vary is extra diverse and extra uncommon. There are some classics in there, however the model’s power is (for me) the fascinating stripes and weird materials – this deep olive, the beige/white linen, the purple ‘Workman’ shirt.
The truth is, there’s a specific enchantment in workwear-like shirts such because the Workman. As a result of in the event you go to a traditional shirtmaker they may often solely have fantastic shirtings from the likes of Thomas Mason, Alumo or Canclini, and will probably be used to creating enterprise kinds. Ask them to supply a rugged chambray, or make with double stitching and teardrop pockets, and they’ll wrestle.
I like work shirts however ready-made ones don’t all the time match me so effectively. The Anthology’s providing might be helpful there, and I would strive one among their Workman shirts subsequent. (Bryceland’s additionally supply this, as does somebody like Gitman Bros at their trunk reveals.)
The one different factor I discovered onerous with the Anthology service was shrinkage. Some materials shrink greater than others, and there isn’t any steering on specific shirts about this. My linen has been fantastic, however I do know others will shrink extra.
If doubtful, I’d say contact the crew and ask their recommendation. In addition they made it clear to me that the MTO service is designed largely for repeat clients – that’s the place it really works finest, when somebody is aware of the Anthology shirts and needs to have the ability to order one thing remotely, with a selected match.
I feel that’s honest – it’s by no means going to check to the match or vary of materials you will get with bespoke or MTM. It’s extra an enhancement, each by way of match and comfort, on the type and product of a model you already like.
My shirt price $230 (the quoted value is for MTO, as these can shirts can solely be made to order, as talked about). The one shirt that’s not made-to-order at the moment is the ‘Large Man’ type.
Observe: This additionally means shirts can’t be returned or exchanged. So a danger there, though I do know from buddies The Anthology readily make a brand new shirt if there may be any form of mistake. Once more, it’s a cause why it really works finest for repeat clients
Garments proven: Ciardi bespoke jacket in Anglo-Italian fabric, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury trousers in Fox Flannel fabric, Ludens crocodile belt, Gaziano & Girling bespoke alligator sneakers
