Until you’re an entire newcomer to traditional menswear (welcome, sit wherever you want) you are unlikely to wish me preaching to you in regards to the class of a shawl-collar cardigan. You’re already a member of the choir and sound fabulous.
What you may want is a few reassurance about making the funding and steering on which cardigan is greatest for you.
On the previous level, I’ve a Drake’s lambswool shawl-collar cardigan; bought seven years in the past, it was the primary high quality menswear garment I needed to save for, and psyche myself as much as purchase, because it was (and stays) an costly proposition. Nevertheless, it’s turn into considered one of my most regularly worn items, and one of many best methods to quietly elevate even essentially the most informal seems to be.
On the latter level, I’ve picked out 5 cardigans at present (and some alternate options) that I feel the PS reader will like. They cowl all the principle choices, with a number of factors right here and there making them distinct.
They are saying a fantastic design is arrived at not when there’s nothing left so as to add, however when there’s nothing left to takeaway. I believe this maxim is likely to be pinned up on the partitions of the Anderson & Sheppard design studio as I discover it applies to numerous their ready-to-wear.
Simply take a look at how easy – virtually austere – this cardigan is compared to the others within the information. It’s the one cardigan with a plain knit – all the things else has a rib or cable knit. It’s solely considered one of two cardigans with no pockets. It’s trim (the one cardigan within the information I’d even think about layering underneath a coat or roomy jacket) however not tight. And in proportion to the remainder of the cardigan, the scarf lapels are reduce slimmer – good for any reader that feels swallowed by a thicker and wider lapel.
Even the variety of buttons have been reduce – many of the cardigans are five-button whereas the A&S has solely 4, which helps to elongate the slimmer lapel and provides it extra of a jacket-like silhouette. The button color can be a delicate level of distinction: most manufacturers are utilizing darkish horn, however A&S typically go for lighter buttons which provides a pleasant distinction.
The A&S color choice is amongst my favorite of all of the manufacturers on this information. Gray and blue is pretty customary throughout most makers, however the darkish inexperienced and mocha brown are significantly good and a bit completely different to the olives and darkish chocolate browns discovered elsewhere.
I discover Anderson & Sheppard knitwear can generally be a little bit small-to-size, so right here I attempted medium and huge – each felt good with little to decide on between them.
The cardigan is cropped and designed to sit down across the hip bone; as I used to be sporting significantly high-waisted trousers that day (and usually favor a better rise) the medium sat actually properly. Nevertheless, any readers that favor a mid-rise may need to measurement up.
Different choices: The Colhay’s painters scarf (£595) is equally aimed toward going underneath a jacket, however is longer and, because it’s created from cashmere, finer and a little bit light-weight. For those who like a cropped cardigan, I’ve had a Speciale cardigan (cotton £395 and cashmere £695) for a yr and it has been a extremely helpful addition to my winter wardrobe. It isn’t a scarf collar, but it surely’s comparable sufficient to the A&S mannequin to warrant a point out.
Now, I do know some readers will sigh at one more inclusion of Drake’s in considered one of these guides (after they cease making good variations of classics, I’ll cease together with them), however even these affected by a very acute case of Drake’s-fatigue need to acknowledge that the shawl-collar cardigan is one thing they’ve performed very properly for a really very long time.
For acolytes of a sure period of ‘hashtag menswear’, the Drake’s scarf cardigan (and the lookbooks wherein it was offered) was the primary time we’d seen the fashion worn in a cool and up to date method. Most different displays have been fairly countrified: a tattersall verify shirt, a roaring log hearth and a mannequin with the smug, happy air of a person that’s paid his mortgage off by the age of 40.
And that Drake’s styling was so useful, as a result of, at coronary heart, their cardigan might be essentially the most conventional one on this information: a chunky rib knit with leather-based soccer buttons.
The pockets are welted which implies the cardigan gained’t lose form or bag if you happen to wish to stuff your pockets. That mentioned, they’re additionally the smallest of the pockets right here so that you gained’t get a lot in them past a cardholder, a set of keys and a small tree’s price of snotty tissues (simply me?).
Drake’s most likely use the hardiest wool within the information too. It isn’t fairly as comfortable because the Colhay’s or Thom Sweeney, though mine has undoubtedly softened over time. Nevertheless that additionally means it’s arguably extra sturdy – I solely acquired my first elbow gap (simply repaired) after six years of standard put on.
Different choices: Simon and I lately paid a go to to Campbell’s of Beauly and I used to be very impressed with their vary of Scottish knitwear. Their 4-ply scarf collar cardigan (£345) was very comparable in fashion to the Drake’s mannequin they usually had a few actually beautiful colors – a bordeaux pink and a duck egg inexperienced. I attempted the scale 40 and it was nice. For much more color selections, you could possibly additionally strive the William Lockie Windsor Scarf Jacket (£279).
Colhay’s lambswool cardigan (£595)
If there’s one model on this information that has a particular affinity for the scarf collar, it’s absolutely Colhay’s, whose present knitwear vary has 5 completely different scarf collar knits (in a number of colors).
I’ve centered right here on the superfine lambswool cardigan because it’s the Colhay’s fashion I’d advocate to readers when selecting their first scarf cardigan. Nevertheless, for anybody considering changing into a two-cardigan household, the aforementioned painter’s cardigan and the scarf coat (a press release piece for knitwear lovers) are undoubtedly price contemplating.
I attempted each the small and the medium, and whereas they each appeared good my choice was the small. Even after sizing down, it’s a beneficiant garment – the longest within the information, with ample area to wrap the entrance panels over each other in a way akin to a double-breasted jacket.
Even the patch pockets are massive, and will comfortably maintain a paperback or mini pill. This may imply the pockets bag a bit extra over time, however I can dwell with that – it’s a cardigan, not a dinner jacket.
My earlier comparability to a jacket is extra perceptive than I realised, as Colhay’s founder Ronnie Chiu defined: “Our scarf collar emulates the lapels of a tailor-made jacket, and the buttoning level sits across the identical level because the buttoning level of a tailor-made jacket. These points mix to create a pleasant V-shape I feel – framing the face, broadening the shoulders, nipping within the waist – emulating the flattering impact of a tailor-made jacket.”
The cardigan is the softest of any of the wool fashions on this information – partly due to the ending, however primarily as a result of the wool is superfine (c 18.5 microns). Nevertheless, it’s not a fragile piece, the yarn is six-ply and Colhay’s knit greater than a kilogram of it right into a thick, outlined rib-stitch which may be very soothing to run your fingers alongside.
I’d additionally wish to make a particular point out of the web site copy – which is among the many greatest I’ve encountered. I do know many PS readers aren’t averse to paying for high quality items, however we anticipate to be informed what makes one thing well worth the cash. Sticking an outline of “100% wool” subsequent to a garment with a steep price ticket simply doesn’t reduce it – particularly when Colhay’s will inform you what kind of yarn they use, the place they get it from, who knits it, how they end it, and the best way to take care of it.
My solely reservation with the Colhay’s cardigan is that it is likely to be too cosy. I’d genuinely hesitate to put on it to an workplace, lest it rouse suspicions that I’m solely there to e-book a gathering room and curl up with an excellent e-book and a glass of brandy.
It’s simply numerous wool, particularly across the collar the place you’ve successfully acquired two layers sitting atop each other – so if you happen to run scorching, or have a shorter neck or simply don’t need something too near your face, you may need to take a look at one thing much less beefy. However, the Colhay’s cardigan was my favorite of the wool scarf cardigans on this information.
Different choices: The Scott & Charters cardigan had the same silhouette to the Colhay’s mannequin, however I am unable to discover any stockists this winter (readers please shout if in any other case). They was bought by No Man Walks Alone, however they’ve informed me they’re engaged on a brand new scarf design with William Lockie. The closest cardigan by way of fashion is our PS Indulgent Cardigan (£995 excl. VAT), which is made in a luxurious 12-ply cashmere – I’ve spent numerous time taking a look at cardigans lately, and there is nothing as luxurious as this in the marketplace.
Thom Sweeney merino cardigan (£725)
The Thom Sweeney mannequin is essentially the most up to date fashion of the cardigans on this information, which maybe lends it extra versatility than the extra conventional designs. One may quip that it is a scarf collar made by Italians – and then you definitely study that it’s truly made in Italy (each different cardigan within the information is Scottish made) and all of it begins to make sense.
The very first thing you’ll discover is the wool. It’s not as hardy or heavy as the opposite cardigans I’ve mentioned; it’s product of a clean and slinky merino with an virtually silken end. It’s nonetheless lots cosy with out being smothering.
I spent most of a light Sunday sporting the great Colhay’s cardigan round the home, earlier than switching to the Thom Sweeney. It was like I’d cracked open a window only a fraction – I used to be nonetheless heat, however there was a renewed freshness to me. This makes it a fantastic selection for readers who run scorching or dwell in milder climates.
As a result of it’s not as chunky as the opposite cardigans (having a slimmer scarf helps right here too), I additionally suppose it’s a perfect journey companion. On most cold-weather getaways, I harbour snuggly fantasies of settling into the nook of a bar with a glass of the native tipple – the scarf collar cardigan draped round my shoulders quietly signifying to everybody simply how at dwelling I’m.
In fact, then I attempt to pack the factor in a suitcase, realise it takes up half the area and abandon the fantasy altogether – thwarted, as soon as once more, by Ryanair’s baggage coverage. Nevertheless, the Thom Sweeney cardigan ought to fold down properly, and even slot in hand baggage with out feeling too cumbersome.
There are solely three buttons on the entrance – one lower than the A&S and two lower than all the things else – which provides a clear end. The impact is amplified by the selection of very darkish (virtually black) buttons on the traditional navy color – in distinction to most manufacturers who use extra conventional darkish brown.
Having fewer buttons means you may’t safe the cardigan excessive across the chest and neck, but it surely additionally implies that, no matter the way you button it, you’ll all the time have a flattering, deep v-shape line by means of the lapels.
The sharper end (each by way of design and wool) lends the Thom Sweeney cardigan a wiser air – verging on dressy – which makes it the only option for readers that need one thing they will put on to a extra formal workplace. I additionally suppose it will carry you into the night for dinner or drinks with out emitting too many old-man vibes. (Not that there’s something improper with that! I ought to know, I’m an previous man).
I attempted the medium and huge and will see each working, however my choice could be a big simply to present myself that little further room and size. The arms are comparatively slim in comparison with the opposite manufacturers within the information, so the iron pumpers on the market may need to strive a measurement up – sadly, not a consideration I’ve to make.
Different choices: The Buck Mason Herdsman cardigan ($298) additionally has a slim lapel, fewer buttons than the usual 5 and squared off pockets. It isn’t the identical high quality and barely extra cropped than the Thom Sweeney, however an excellent funds choice.
Begg & Co Aspen cashmere cardigan (£1200)
I met Simon for a espresso within the spring, and (not the primary time) got here away with extreme outfit envy.
He was sporting a pair of charcoal flannels and a washed denim shirt. Nothing significantly exceptional right here, though the match of the trousers and the feel of the shirt have been nonetheless a reduce above the orphaned-suit-trousers and open collar gown shirt ensemble that’s turn into the hallmark of enterprise informal.
Nevertheless, the purpose of focus, the supplier of form, the feel magnet for curious, foraging menswear fingers was this stunning cashmere cardigan from Begg & Co.
Simon has written extensively about Begg prior to now, and has constantly highlighted the standard of their uncooked supplies as considered one of their strengths. Right here they use an 8-ply cashmere in a cable knit, which is a mode extra generally discovered on fishermen’s crewnecks (and, because it occurs, Begg have a superb model of that too).
Whereas the 8-ply cashmere feels incredible in opposition to the physique (quelle shock), it’s additionally much less cumbersome than the heavyweight 6-ply lambswool from Colhay’s – which is sensible because the cashmere utilized by Begg is finer and lighter than even superfine wool.
I attempted each the small and medium and, to be trustworthy, there wasn’t a lot distinction between the 2. If I had to select, I’d keep true-to-size and go for the medium.
The small, as you’d anticipate, was a little bit nearer within the arms and chest, however I couldn’t actually understand a distinction in size – despite the fact that the web site signifies there must be a 1.5cm improve everytime you go up a measurement.
The very useful gross sales assistant Ly famous that the small had been hanging on a rail so it might have stretched just a bit bit over time. A helpful reminder that knitwear (maybe greater than every other sort of garment) will give with common put on – and for a product as beautiful and as costly as this, I insist you put on it each bloody probability you get.
Just like the A&S cardigan, the Begg mannequin doesn’t have any pockets. One other function in widespread is that they’re each comparatively cropped – though the Begg is a centimetre or two longer.
When it comes to colors, Begg has lent into a chilly palette with onerous names like pacific and asphalt – a case of nominative indeterminisim given how heat and comfortable the product is. Nevertheless, the color I’d unhesitatingly choose for myself is the naked undyed, the place the pure color of the cashmere is allowed to shine untouched by dye. Curiously, this additionally helps the cashmere really feel ever-so-slightly softer than the dyed equivalents.
Different choices: Ralph Lauren have an Aran-knit scarf collar cardigan (£269). The sample is extra distinguished than the Begg mannequin, and it is a cotton cardigan so will not be anyplace close to as cosy. Nevertheless, it is a good choice if you happen to’re searching for a less expensive cable knit.
