The time period “ultra-thin” as soon as referred to watches measuring underneath 10mm thick — a outstanding characteristic, as such svelteness embodies technical prowess, consolation, and magnificence, multi functional glossy package deal. That’s, till manufacturers equivalent to Bvlgari started redefining thinness to imply tickers which can be leaner than a coin.
Between 2014 and 2022, Bvlgari set eight data for thinness in classes such because the world’s thinnest computerized tourbillon, chronograph, tourbillon and chronograph, minute repeater, and even a perpetual calendar. This yr, on its one hundred and fortieth anniversary, Bvlgari breaks its ninth with the discharge of the Octo Finissimo Extremely COSC, its thinnest watch but at an astonishing 1.75mm thickness. This surpasses its predecessor and former record-holder, the Octo Finissimo Extremely of 2022, which measured 1.80mm. Bvlgari’s launch is a totally realised watch, out there in two variations, every restricted to twenty items, and every bit is COSC-certified.
This laudable feat was the results of a collaboration between Bvlgari’s personal watchmaking staff and motion specialist Concepto. As with many earlier watches of such perilous dimensions, the Extremely COSC makes use of its case again because the motion’s primary plate. To realize that further tenth of a millimetre discount in top, your entire structure of the watch, from the case to its particular person parts, was re-engineered, resulting in the submitting of eight patents.
The BLV180 calibre operates at 4Hz and gives an influence reserve of fifty hours. It contains 170 parts, every meticulously measured with 1/10-micron optical programs to make sure near-perfect dimensions. These parts are assembled onto a tungsten carbide mainplate/case again, chosen for its distinctive hardness, density, and sturdiness. The center case, bezel, lugs, and bracelet are crafted from sandblasted titanium, contributing to the watch’s futuristic look.
Persevering with the Extremely collection’ trendy aesthetic, the brand new mannequin incorporates a geometric sample on the ratchet, changing the QR code seen on the earlier model. The watch’s again additionally features a Information Matrix code, offering complete details about the watch and its growth, together with photos and movies. Even the devoted presentation case is high- tech, permitting you to set and wind the watch with the contact of a button and a digital show.
Along with the titanium mannequin, Bvlgari has additionally launched a platinum model. The gleam of the valuable steel, mixed with the blue PVD sheen on the regulator dials, offers this model a distinctly extra formal attraction. Whatever the alternative, Bvlgari has as soon as once more showcased its boldness and innovation in pushing the boundaries of ultra-thin watchmaking, presenting a timepiece that’s each technically spectacular and stylistically hanging.
Between The Strains
Celebrating the anniversary in a extra playful method are the brand new Octo Finissimo Sketch fashions, as Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Government Director of Product Creation at Bvlgari Horlogerie, has his drawings immortalised on watch dials as soon as extra.
The primary Sketch editions debuted in 2022 to mark the tenth anniversary of the Octo Finissimo assortment, that includes hour markers, sub-dials, and the model title whimsically doodled onto the faces of the Automated and Chronograph GMT Automated fashions. This yr’s editions revisit these fashions with extra intricate designs. The 40mm Automated, out there in metal or rose gold, showcases a drawing of the BVL138 motion’s again as an alternative of a conventional watch face. In the meantime, the 43mm metal Chronograph GMT options an open-worked view of the BVL318 motion.
The Automated Sketch is proscribed to 70 (rose gold) and 280 (metal) items, whereas the Chronograph GMT Sketch is proscribed to 140 items.
Time Flies
The title holder for the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch in 2014 is again with three variations for followers of difficult skinniness. The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manuel is now out there in rose gold or sandblasted titanium with black DLC. Whereas the rose gold version exudes simple class, the titanium mannequin combines each sophistication and sportiness with its contrasting rose gold fingers, chapter ring, and crown.
In the meantime, the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automated introduces a brand new 40mm platinum reference. Its skeletonised motion incorporates a micro-blasted blue end that enhances the darkish blue alligator strap. Each the hand-wound BVL 268SK and the automated BVL 288 actions are simply 1.95mm thick, sustaining their standing because the thinnest tourbillon actions round.
Night time Shift
All-black watches want a powerful design language to make an influence — one thing Bvlgari’s iconic Octo Roma fortunately has. The Octo Roma Automated and Octo Roma Chrono have each been given a monochromatic makeover with black DLC metal circumstances, black dials, and black straps. However to make sure readability, the indices and fingers are coated with luminescent materials.
The automated mannequin measures 41mm, is powered by the in-house BVL191 motion with an influence reserve of 42 hours. The chronograph is barely greater at 42mm, homes the BVL399 calibre with the identical autonomy, and is the primary Octo Roma Chrono in a full black livery.
Regardless of the gathering’s historical architectural inspiration, the colouring and Clous de Paris textures on the dial, together with the rubber straps, give these watches a distinctly trendy really feel. An extra black alligator strap can also be included and might be simply interchanged.
Seasonal Twists
Japanese architect Tadao Ando, who beforehand collaborated with the model on the mesmerisingly minimalist Octo Finissimo editions in 2020 and 2021, now brings his artistic imaginative and prescient to the Serpenti Tubogas. Identified for his deep respect for nature, Ando has designed 4 Serpenti watches that includes stone marquetry dials, every capturing the fantastic thing about the 4 seasons.
“Natsu” displays the sun-drenched foliage of summer season with inexperienced aventurine and a bi-metallic yellow gold and metal case. “Aki”, the Japanese phrase for autumn, glows with the golden hues of tiger’s eye, matched with the heat of its rose gold case. “Fuyu” pairs white mother-of-pearl with metal to echo the crispness of winter, whereas “Haru” makes use of a pink shade of mother-of-pearl and a metal and rose gold mixture that evoke cherry blossoms in spring.
Haru and Aki can be found solely in a 135mm twirl dimension, whereas Fuyu and Haru are available in each 135mm and 145mm sizes. All watches are 35mm extensive, outfitted with quartz actions, and have bezels set with 38 diamonds. In addition they have casebacks engraved with Ando’s signature and “Tadao Restricted Version.” The watches can be launched over the following yr, corresponding with the seasons and culminating in March 2025. Moreover, there can be 20 field units that embrace all 4 creations.
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