Each time we go on a visit to a brand new nation, we attempt to cowl a little bit of the native non-menswear craft alongside the standard tailoring, shirtmaking and shoemaking.
After we had been in Japan a few years in the past, we visited the grasp blade-maker Sasuke in Sakai. That turned out to be one in all our favorite ever experiences, and it set the remainder of Japanese craft in some context – their conventional perspective to apprentices, for instance.
In Korea final yr we did the identical, this time visiting Cheyul, the nation’s greatest and most fashionable proponent of conventional lacquer work.
Lacquer is vital to Korean heritage: it’s the form of factor overseas dignitaries are sometimes given as a present. US President Joe Biden was given a four-drawer chest with purple lacquer not too long ago; LVMH’s Bernard Arnault was additionally given a chunk when he visited.
And the work is held up as artwork – a ground vase made by Cheyul is held by the Met in New York in its Arts of Korea gallery.
The lacquer comes from native timber and is tapped in the identical manner as maple syrup. It’s clear, however historically was dyed black or purple, constructing as much as 10 layers with a purpose to create a deep, shimmering impact. At the moment artificial dyes are used to create each color.
The method additionally typically entails mother-of-pearl, both masking objects or being delicately sliced to create patterns and photos. This makes among the outcomes fairly female, and well-liked makes use of immediately are for a bride’s wedding ceremony chest or jewelry and jewelry packing containers.
The designs may also be fairly floral, which contributes to the identical impression – just like the inserts and handles on a chest like this.
However Cheyul’s mission is to make the craft related in addition to defending it, in order that they work with present artists to use it to new objects, similar to guitars and tube amps. These items, which normally forego mom of pearl, look extra masculine in addition to extra fashionable.
The massive room vase above is just like the piece on the Met. It has a layer of hemp utilized to the floor to create a pure texture, which the tens of millions of slices of mother-of-pearl are then utilized to.
Evaluate that to these lattice chests, that are a contemporary interpretation of the identical design – with an aluminium body, much less natural form and angular ornament. The identical method is used on a barely extra conventional field under.
The surfaces of these items actually had been beautiful in particular person, and I believe extra intriguing on a smaller scale as in these packing containers. However typically the items that attracted me most had been wood tables and stools, maybe as a result of I cherished that wealthy brown of the wooden – and items with extra expressionistic designs, similar to this one.
I wasn’t actually procuring, as these little packing containers had been £500 and the furnishings is within the 1000’s (‘value on request’ isn’t a superb signal). However it’s enjoyable to assume what you’d purchase in case you may, and it gave us an appreciation of a craft we beforehand knew nothing about.
That was deepened when Alex [Natt, photographer] and I had been surprisingly given the chance to make a chunk ourselves.
The parameters had been, fortunately, restricted. We every had a tray and a set of mother-of-pearl reduce outs to rearrange. It was laborious to go improper.
We did our greatest although, typically dropping slivers of pearl into the moist lacquer, after which discovering it laborious to show them the fitting manner up, not to mention place them. God is aware of how anybody may create one thing exact and on a big scale.
Fortunately, once more, Alex uncared for to take any images of the completed end result, so that you’ll should think about our makes an attempt.
There are different makers of lacquer in Korea, however they’re usually one or two artisans, and items are made to order. Cheyul, which was established in 1988 with a mission to make this craft extra broadly identified, is the one one in all any measurement with inventory.
It’s solely obtainable in Korea – of their store, a resort and a division retailer – however they apparently plan to develop abroad. There was an exhibition of the work within the Saatchi Gallery in London in 2015.
For now, that is about appreciation of a brand new craft, and a advice to go to the store in case you’re in Seoul – it’s monumental, seemingly small at floor degree however then happening and down for 4 flooring.
For extra from that Korea journey, see articles right here
