I first experimented with sporting braids as a protecting model through the pandemic. The model helped me keep my thick, coily hair once I couldn’t get my bi-weekly salon blowouts through the lockdown. I opted for lengthy field braids—smooth, thick in width, and rope-like—much like the model Janet Jackson wore in Poetic Justice.
Moreover serving to me feel and appear extra put along with minimal effort, the convenience field braids afforded me couldn’t be discounted. The no-fuss model was the right alternative for me, a low-maintenance lady who needed a simple model that regarded polished. I liked the liberty they gave me. I not needed to make investments 20 minutes every day fastidiously detangling and styling my multi-textured hair. As a substitute, I might rise up and go about my enterprise rapidly, savoring the dear time saved as an alternative of being beholden to my hair.
Thus, it was a no brainer once I selected to maintain the braided coiffure even when hair salons have been allowed to open once more. I had my field braids professionally redone each eight to 10 weeks. Nonetheless, after 18 months of getting braids constantly, I seen that my edges have been thinning. “That appears like traction alopecia to me,” a professional hairstylist informed me as he inspected my fragile hairline throughout an appointment, lastly making me query whether or not my chosen protecting model was “protecting” in any respect. The fact is that any coiffure that creates rigidity on the root of your hair (assume braids, buns, ponytails, tight headbands, and so forth) can put you prone to hair loss, shedding, or traction alopecia in additional extreme instances.
To assist me type out if traction alopecia was the reason for my thinning edges, I reached out to Carl Truesdale, MD, a board-certified facial plastic surgeon and hair transplant surgeon; Hadley King, MD, a board-certified dermatologist; and trichologists Bridgette Hill and Sophia Emmanuel to debate all there’s to find out about traction alopecia, together with how one can acknowledge it, how one can stop it, and how one can develop hair after shedding.
What’s traction alopecia?
Traction alopecia is hair loss brought on by repeated pulling or rigidity on the scalp. Based on Dr. Truesdale, extreme stress on hair follicles is extraordinarily frequent because of the rise in recognition of braids, extensions, wigs, and snatched-back hairstyles like buns and ponytails. Whereas anybody can expertise traction alopecia, the situation is frequent in Black girls, affecting one third of them, based on analysis. “Traction alopecia can have an effect on any space of the scalp that’s pulled tightly, however it primarily impacts the hairline, the crown, and the nape,” Emmanuel tells us. “Over time, extended use of high-tension hairstyles may end up in everlasting hair loss as a result of irreversible injury to hair follicles.”
Dr. Truesdale says that the perpetrator behind traction alopecia is often persistent irritation that happens on the hair follicles when hair is pulled too taut. “The fixed irritation can result in thinning, breakage, and finally, balding of the affected space,” he says.
What causes traction alopecia?
Traction alopecia might be brought on by any coiffure that excessively pulls or locations rigidity on the scalp. These types can even embody what some seek advice from as “protecting types,” together with braids, twists, locs, weaves, extensions, buns, and ponytails when finished too tight. “They’re not deemed protecting when finished improperly,” Hill says. “They’re extra so ‘types of comfort’ as they’ll trigger extra hurt than good when finished tightly.” Hill additionally says that utilizing cumbersome extensions in some protecting types may cause bodily stress to your strands by weighing them down and finally yanking them out. “Be conscious when including hair to your model that it is not heavy or carries important weight,” she warns.
Emmanuel additionally says that clip-in hair extensions may cause traction alopecia by repeatedly pulling and urgent on the scalp, which, when finished repeatedly, can weaken hair follicles over time. Equally, improper-fitting wigs—”whether or not too small or too unfastened”—may cause friction to your edges, contributing to hair loss,” she provides, noting that the glue used for securing wigs may help in thinning your pure hairline. One other contributing issue which will trigger the weakening of the hair follicle is the usage of taut hair equipment, like tightly wound rubber bands, ponytail holders, and cushty headbands.
What are the indicators of traction alopecia?
Dr. Truesdale says early indicators of traction alopecia embody an itchy, tender, or crimson scalp, small pimple-like bumps alongside the hairline and temples from the pulling rigidity, and hair breakage. “Because the situation progresses, hair thinning turns into noticeable, and in extreme instances, hair follicles are completely broken,” he says. Often, damage to the follicle is visually evident when diagnosing traction alopecia, says Dr. King; nevertheless, a health care provider can conduct a biopsy to rule out different hair loss prospects.
How you can deal with traction alopecia?
“In the event you suspect you could be experiencing traction alopecia, it is important to seek the advice of with a healthcare skilled or a dermatologist,” says Dr. Truesdale. “Early analysis and remedy will help decrease hair loss and enhance your total hair well being.”
First up—loosen your tight model
Hill says step one to restoration is to cease sporting compromising hairstyles or utilizing dangerous methods that pull your hair tightly or trigger extreme friction with the intention to relieve any rigidity in your follicles. This does not imply by no means to put on a ponytail or get field braids once more, however cease and take a minute to loosen your hair tie if it is tugging at your roots (or take it out earlier than mattress) and undoubtedly talk with braiders and hairstylists in case your model feels too tight.
Adopting practices like sleeping on a silk pillowcase to reduce further friction or making certain that the band in your bonnet is not too comfortable—together with utilizing light, nourishing haircare merchandise can even assist. “Hair loss would not occur the primary time you put on a decent coiffure. It occurs over time. So in the event you can maintain the scalp wholesome going ahead, you will get your hair again on monitor,” Dr. King explains. For extra superior instances, medical interventions could also be crucial, Dr. Truesdale says, with therapies relying on the severity of the hair loss.
Focus on remedy choices along with your physician
The FDA-approved topical remedy minoxidil will help stimulate hair development if no follicle scarring is concerned. Minoxidil works by enhancing blood stream to the scalp, which in flip helps maintain hair in its anagen section—the rising section of hair—longer—some dermatologists prefer to compound minoxidil with tretinoin to enhance its efficacy and scalp absorbency. Moreover, docs can inject topical corticosteroids (just like the FDA-approved injection Kenalog) into the affected areas to scale back irritation brought on by the situation.
Along side the beforehand talked about scalp therapies, Dr. Truesdale additionally likes treating the compromised space with crimson mild remedy, platelet-rich plasma remedy (also referred to as PRP), or exosome injections to foster scalp well being and hair follicle restoration. Purple mild remedy works by exposing areas of hair loss to crimson LED mild to spice up dormant hair follicles into the expansion stage.
PRP entails drawing blood from a affected person and separating the enriched cells, then injecting them again into the scalp to feed the broken follicles and stimulate their stem cells for hair development. Alternatively, exosome remedy is a more recent scalp process that helps snap dormant hair follicles out of relaxation. Exosomes comprise development elements, varied proteins, and activated stem cell indicators, which may talk with impaired follicle cells to spur hair regeneration.
Nonetheless, if the injury to the follicles is extreme and ends in scarring, the ensuing hair loss shall be everlasting, explains Dr. King. “There’s nothing you are able to do to reverse it at that stage,” she tells us. Therefore, a hair transplant could also be your solely viable choice if that’s the case. The process entails transferring wholesome hair follicles from areas from the again or sides of the scalp—the place hair just isn’t usually inclined to balding—to fill within the spots that skilled irreversible hair loss by changing them with new ones, explains Dr. Truesdale.
What can we do to stop traction alopecia?
One of the simplest ways to keep away from traction alopecia is to keep away from tight hairdos altogether, advises Dr. Truesdale. Go for looser types to scale back rigidity on the hair as an alternative, suggests Hill. In the event you put on hair extensions, braids, wigs, clip-ins, locs, or twists, guarantee they don’t seem to be so tight, put on them moderately, and change up your coiffure typically to provide your hair follicles a relaxation in between.
And bear in mind, when deciding on a braiding knowledgeable, search a licensed hairstylist or an skilled artist with a method that minimizes scalp irritation. Most significantly, do not be afraid to talk up in the event you expertise discomfort, and have them instantly undo the model if it is painful, says Hill. We all know it may be a bit awkward to push again within the salon chair, however utilizing your voice on the first signal of discomfort can prevent a number of stress and ache in the long term.
Closing takeaway
Armed with the above information, I paused on ceaselessly getting braids and began sporting a lower-tension coiffure, pronto. I additionally sought the skilled help of a dermatologist to evaluate my hair and scalp and assist decide my greatest plan of action. Fortunately, traction alopecia is preventable and reversible in lots of instances, particularly in the event you act quick. Fortunately, the injury to my hairline was superficial, and the dermatologist was in a position to bolster it to its unique thickness with a mixture of Kenalog photographs and a minoxidil compound prescription.
Will I ever cop again to the comfort of “protecting styling” once more? Most probably, sure. I am truly contemplating braids for my subsequent week-long trip (which is completely tremendous), however now, I’m well-equipped with the information on how one can put on and take care of them correctly so my hair and scalp can thrive and flourish to the fullest.
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