Perceptions can shift with context and distance: ask Ilenia Durazzi and she’s going to show it along with her model.
On a progress trajectory — gaining traction each within the home market and South Korea — the Italian label has discovered a brand new residence in Milan. It relocated from a small residence in an historic constructing to an area full of pure lighting that Durazzi fully revamped to deal with the model’s headquarters but additionally to change into a gathering level for the town’s cultural neighborhood.
The minimal inside, which mixes nature and concrete and served as venue for her spring 2025 presentation, shed a brand new mild on her vogue, revealing its extra experimental facet.
“I’ve at all times thought-about this as a futurist model, however perhaps the work on supplies and the experimentation intrinsic in its DNA weren’t as clear within the different area,” mentioned the soft-spoken designer.
The change of surroundings went hand-in-hand with the evolution of Durazzi’s codes as her newest assortment veered from an equestrian narrative and to point out a looser method to tailoring in comparison with the sharp strains of earlier efforts.
Influenced by the Arte Povera artwork motion and DIY tradition, Durazzi displayed charming, on a regular basis items that regarded easy and rustic from afar however revealed their craftsmanship up shut. A camel-hued blazer jacket with curled sleeves held by leather-based cuffs was crafted from raffia and got here with an identical skirt; a suede-looking papery trenchcoat was reduce from high-performance nylon, whereas a easy tank prime was elevated with a ravishing distressed approach that lent the design an impalpable texture.
Additional constructing on the imperfect and artful vibe, Durazzi lined a silk shirt and informal zippered jacket in grosgrain fringes embroidered with metallic medals; had naïf motifs hand-painted on an uncomplicated shirt costume and A-line frock, and launched macramé separates as a counterpoint to thicker textures and the sculptural volumes of skirts and capes.
She additionally widened her equipment lineup, as most of the present baggage and boots grew to become a part of what the designer titled “Everlasting Assortment,” a line of carryover kinds that embrace the model’s signature grey tailoring and the must-have five-pocket leather-based pants.
