Andrea Norgren, Senior Supervisor of Communications, on the WWF World Arctic Programme, traveled to Greenland, with Pure Habitat Adventures originally of August 2024.
© Anthony Amsel / Nat Hab
My journey in August to southeastern Greenland was an eye-opening expertise, full of stark contrasts that showcased the sweetness and fragility of this distant area.
Southeastern Greenland, together with the Sermilik Fjord the place we have been for a lot of days, is a dramatic testomony to the Earth’s previous. The mountains that rise sharply from the ocean are primarily composed of Precambrian gneiss and granite, among the oldest rocks on the planet, courting again over three billion years. It was humbling to face amongst these historic formations, formed by tectonic forces and carved by glaciers over the past Ice Age.
© Malene Lynge / WWF-Denmark
The banded gneiss and solidified granite reveal a historical past formed by immense strain and time. Each are rocks that had as soon as been molten, now stable and unmoving, set towards the ever-changing ice and water that surrounded them.
Discovering serenity amidst the wilderness
Every morning at Nat Hab’s Base Camp Greenland, an expedition lodge with tent cabins positioned on the east aspect of Sermilik Fjord, our small group would collect on the rocks, following the lead of a fellow traveler and new buddy who guided us via yoga poses. The setting was surreal—and I used to be calm and centered, inhaling one of many planet’s most distant and untouched landscapes.
Over the 5 days whereas we have been on the Base Camp, we hiked within the mountains surrounding the Sermilik Fjord many occasions. We have been rewarded with sweeping views of the fjord, the place jagged mountains and huge expanses of ice stretch so far as the attention might see. We additionally kayaked amongst towering icebergs that felt virtually alive, groaning and shifting as they interacted with the water and wind.
© Malene Lynge / WWF-Denmark
Amidst all of it, there was at all times laughter—a way of connection and heat between this unbelievable group of fellow vacationers witnessing collectively the magic of this distant space of the Arctic.
Taking within the pure magnificence
At first look, this a part of southeastern Greenland seems virtually devoid of life. The huge expanses of ice and rock appear inhospitable, and wildlife sightings have been uncommon. However as I spent extra time on this stark surroundings, I started to note the refined indicators of a wealthy biodiversity. The bottom beneath my ft was typically cushioned by lichen and moss, resilient organisms that thrive within the harshest situations. Wildflowers, small however vibrant, dotted the panorama, including sudden splashes of shade.
© Anthony Amsel / Nat Hab
There have been additionally extra birds than I initially realized. Gulls, ravens, and snow buntings introduced sound and motion to the in any other case quiet backdrop. However the true stars of the present, for me, have been the whales. On our boat journey from Tasiilaq to our camp close to Sermilik Fjord, we have been handled to the sight of many humpbacks. Watching these majestic creatures floor and feed, typically close to the towering icebergs, was a reminder of the interconnectedness of all life on this fragile ecosystem.
One of the stunning features of southeastern Greenland was the sound. Regardless of its remoteness, the area is much from silent. The ice, which dominates the panorama, has a life—and a voice—of its personal. Though we didn’t see any dramatic ice-calving occasions, the icebergs have been continually cracking, shifting, and even flipping over, creating sounds that echoed throughout the fjord.
Dealing with an unsure future
Our go to to native cities, akin to Tasiilaq and the tiny village of Tinit gave us a glimpse into the lives of the communities which have lived and survived on this harsh surroundings for generations. Their lifestyle is carefully tied to the pure world, however that’s altering. Conventional searching and fishing practices are being disrupted because the individuals who name Greenland residence should adapt to an more and more unpredictable local weather.
© Anthony Amsel / Nat Hab
Regardless of the hardships, there was a heat and friendliness among the many folks we met—a resilience that has developed via generations of dwelling in one of the crucial difficult environments on Earth. But, there was additionally a palpable sense of uncertainty in regards to the future.
The Arctic is warming 4 occasions sooner than the worldwide common and the results are seen in all places. Summer season sea ice is shrinking quickly and the icebergs we noticed are calving at an unprecedented price. The Greenland ice sheet is dropping mass at an alarming tempo, which is contributing to world sea degree rise.
My journey to southeastern Greenland was certainly one of profound contrasts. The great thing about this distant and rugged land is plain, however so is its fragility. The alternatives we make now will decide the way forward for locations like southeastern Greenland—and the folks and wildlife who rely on it. And whereas the contrasts I skilled on this journey will stick with me endlessly, so will the pressing want to guard the Arctic from the devastating results of local weather change.
© Anthony Amsel / Nat Hab
