There’s been much more curiosity in belts with smarter clothes in recent times – one thing I highlighted and defined my reasoning for in this text.
However we’ve by no means executed a ‘wardrobe constructing’ piece on them, or set out my normal recommendation in a single place – not less than, not since this slightly primary piece 16 years in the past (16 years!).
So listed here are some tips, primarily capturing all of the little items of recommendation given in reply to feedback, plus some private reflections. I’ll comply with up in a subsequent article on advised manufacturers, together with my private assortment.
1. Color
A wise belt ought to roughly match the color of your sneakers. That doesn’t imply you want a brown one for each shade of brown you personal, however usually most guys that put on a variety of good clothes will want a darkish brown and a black, plus maybe mild brown or tan.
A very good instance of matching or not is Coloration-8 cordovan. I’ve by no means managed to discover a Coloration-8 belt I like, however that is minor niggle. Till I do discover one I’m pleased with, I put on darkish brown (given how darkish most of my Coloration-8 is) or forego a belt altogether.
With extra informal sneakers, there may be a lot much less must match supplies or colors. You simply desire a extra informal belt – eg a tan suede, a braided leather-based – slightly than a slim good calf. There’s additionally extra leeway to put on extra colors – eg stripes on a webbing belt.
Extra on matching leathers in this text.
2. Leathers
As with color, you wish to roughly match the fabric in the case of smarter sneakers. So suede with suede, leather-based with leather-based.
That is fairly apparent – much less apparent are the issues that make a belt smarter in respects apart from color: width, buckle, stitching, kind of leather-based. The most typical mistake I discover guys make is carrying a thick brown leather-based belt (typically with an enormous buckle) with a positive calf shoe.
This distinction between varieties of belts can be typically one between varieties of maker. Impartial leather-based employees, notably within the UK, are likely to work in thick leathers like bridle that don’t have any backing and no stitching alongside their size (eg Tim Hardy). These will often be extra informal than a maker who makes use of finer leathers like calf, on each side.
Braided leathers are a pleasant informal choice, however can look a little bit old-mannish in some contexts. Personally I desire these after they’re a little bit narrower, or very worn in. Tooled leather-based is a stunning artwork and a extra informal look – a pleasant choice if you’d like the belt slightly than buckle to be barely uncommon.
3. Different supplies
Exotics resembling crocodile generally is a good solution to elevate a belt, with out going for one thing as dramatic as an enormous buckle or an uncommon color. Sadly, unique leather-based has gone up vastly in worth in recent times – the provider I do know finest has seen the associated fee worth of their crocodile double in 5 years.
For those who can afford it, I nonetheless assume croc is a pleasant choice, but additionally go searching for alternate options resembling lizard (Ralph Lauren used to do some nice ones) or ostrich – I really useful right here my ostrich-leg belt from Silver Ostrich. Different varieties of leather-based with some texture, resembling deer or a tumbled calf, may be even be a pleasant bridge between good and informal.
A canvas belt is helpful and refined, and has purposeful facets some folks like (a little bit stretch typically, a softness and lightness). However like braided belts, they will look a little bit old school. The easiest way to keep away from that is going for one thing slimmer and subtler, or getting an uncommon classic one (Sean Crowley has masses), or maybe a cordovan-faced one (eg Rubato).
4. Width
Basic belts are often between 1.25 and 1.5 inches, with smarter ones on the narrower finish of that spectrum.
Nevertheless I like narrower belts, each as a extra elegant look and one thing a bit extra uncommon. Going from 1.25 to 1 inch makes a stunning visible distinction – like a lapel going from 3.5 inches to 4. It’s notably good with tailoring, however I prefer it with denims too, like my Ludens belts.
One-inch belts have grow to be standard in recent times and fairly a couple of of the newer manufacturers provide it (Berg & Berg, Natalino, Rubato) the place the extra conventional ones stick with 1.25 and above. So it could be a little bit of a pattern, however on the identical time I don’t assume it’s going to ever look odd or misplaced, given it’s a small distinction.
Very skinny belts may also be fairly fascinating, like Matt Woodruff’s right here for instance (classic) or the tape belts Husbands and Scott Fraser Assortment do. However they’re positively extra of a glance.
5. Buckle supplies
A very good belt buckle is strong brass, even when it’s then been coated silver. It’s stronger and ages higher. That’s typically probably the most distinction between an affordable belt and a costlier one, although not everybody bothers to say so on-line. (In particular person it’s extra apparent – strong brass is heavier.)
Attempt to keep away from buckles with apparent therapies. ‘Antiqued’ results are likely to look synthetic, and even one thing with a coating that doesn’t seem like it’s had an ‘impact’ utilized is healthier to my eye.
You will get buckles in strong silver, however they are going to be costlier. One well-known silver design is the engine-turned buckle related to Tiffany, some Western belts and Brooks Brothers (and so a little bit of an Ivy staple) These are sometimes not as costly as different sterling silver as the fabric is kind of skinny.
These Ludens belts of mine have that design. And that leads us onto the final part…
6. Buckle designs
It is a big space, and possibly deserves its personal in-depth article sooner or later. You may roughly separate it although into completely different shapes of costume buckles, after which extra uncommon ones like Western buckles.
As to the primary class, I feel magnificence and subtlety would be the watch phrases for readers. Consider this as a chunk of jewelry, not less than from a design viewpoint. Certainly one of my favorite facets of a Cartier watch is the clasp you get on many Tanks – that delicately turned and flowing design that actually provides to the design of the entire.
Clearly, an enormous Hermes ‘H’ is pretty crass, however it’s price contemplating the finer facets of design too, because it’s more likely to be one of many few items of {hardware} you’ll be carrying.
Buckles grow to be extra informal as they get larger and thicker. They might swimsuit a thick cowhide belt greater than a costume one. However additionally they explode in potentialities, with sq. frames and oval plates, containing initials or footage, in addition to three-piece engraved units.
These may be actual artistic endeavors, and improbable in the event that they’re your model. However as with most issues I’d advise going slowly and thoroughly. I’ve two from Silver Ostrich which I like, however largely as objects. Once I put them on they typically really feel like an excessive amount of of an announcement, they usually get worn a tenth as typically as each different belt – often when an outfit feels prefer it lacks one thing.
Double-ring belts are good on canvas belts, a little bit extra uncommon on leather-based ones. I’ve had them previously however offered mine as they at all times felt a little bit fussy. I can positively see the enchantment for somebody who likes the performance although.
That looks like sufficient for a primary article, however do let me know what I missed and what you’d prefer to see included in subsequent items.
I’ll, as talked about, do one follow-up on my assortment and types, however be at liberty to share your private suggestions within the feedback right here as effectively.
Keep in mind all articles on PS are damaged down into classes within the menu, so there’s a devoted part right here on belts and wallets (small leather-based items mainly).
