After visiting Nuuk and crusing north up the coast of japanese Greenland, we lastly reached Qeqertarsuaq in Disko Bay. It’s one of many iconic areas to go to in Greenland, and for good motive.
For a few years, Disko Bay has been the de rigour spot for many visits to Greenland, and it doesn’t disappoint.
The entire bay was explored by Norse populations centuries in the past, and it’s simply as stunning because it was centuries in the past—effectively, no less than I think about it’s.
After an early night time following our journey to discover Nuuk, we arrived brilliant and early at Qeqertarsuaq, a vibrant little city that just a few hundred folks name dwelling. It’s proper on the westerly fringes of Disko Island, and our captain noticed a chance to anchor up and get us to shore by way of the zodiacs.
We had been so excited, particularly as we arrived on the daybreak. Really, that’s a lie. We arrived as we awoke at 8 a.m. The solar started showing round 2 a.m. Ha!
Anyway, with out getting slowed down with the main points, we shortly headed to Qeqertarsuaq by way of the zodiacs, which took about 4 minutes from the anchor place of Ocean Albatros.
After setting foot on Disko Island, we took the chance to discover the city and the broader shoreline to the west. We had thought of becoming a member of one of many organised excursions that Albatros Expeditions organises on the bottom, however we actually needed to move off on our personal schedule.
By the way in which, Qeqertarsuaq is so charming. Sure, it’s small, and there are only a few bars, eating places, and outlets, however what it lacks in facilities, it makes up for with character. It’s completely vibrant and delightful, and it’s the right spot to see the icebergs that float by from Disko Bay.
In fact, we headed to a few of Qeqertarsuaq’s most iconic websites. We explored the enduring church, visited the lodge for a espresso and stopped off on the Qeqertarsuaq Museum. It’s very small (it is going to take round 10 minutes to stroll round), however so beautiful and effectively value popping in while you’re in Qeqertarsuaq.
Afterwards, we made our manner in the direction of the whale-watching hut that’s a few 30-minute stroll from the harbour jetty.
Alongside the way in which, we noticed essentially the most beautiful huskies. Nonetheless, as with most canine in Greenland, they’re classed as ‘working canine’ and are usually not domesticated in the identical manner you is likely to be used to at dwelling.
That’s to not say they’re aggressive or ill-tempered, however they’re working canine and must be revered as such. Because of this, we selected to not pet or overly work together with them.
The expedition crew onboard Ocean Albatros additionally suggested this. Nonetheless, the huskies had been actually excited to see us, and it was such a stunning welcome to Qeqertarsuaq.
As we strolled, or ought to I say tracked, throughout the Arctic rocks, we lastly made it to the whale-watching hut. It’s completely located for, you guessed it, whale watching.
We stayed right here for round an hour, and we noticed no whales.
We tried, we watched for each spurt of air, ripple and motion within the sea; to no avail. Although, we’re sort of used to it by now – we’ve solely just lately been fortunate sufficient to see whales while travelling in Iceland and Alaska.
Though we would not have seen whales in Qeqertarsuaq, we did get to see heaps of icebergs passing Qeqertarsuaq. This was removed from a disappointment as, over time, we’ve come to grasp you can by no means really assure recognizing a whale.
Qeqertarsuaq suprised me. I’d by no means heard of the small city earlier than planning our journey to Greenland; nevertheless it was truthfully a spotlight – and Disko Island, too. Plus, it was our first cease north of the Arctic Circle in Greenland, which made it further particular.
After heading again to Ocean Albatros, grabbing a light-weight lunch… heck, who am I kidding? I ruined that buffet – for some motive, the chilly air makes me further hungry. Effectively, that’s my excuse, and I received’t be informed otherwise.
Earlier than lengthy, the anchor of Ocean Albatros was raised, and we began our expedition by means of Disko Bay itself. This space has a protracted historical past of holiday makers, together with Innuit and Norse explorers… and us, after all! As we sailed by means of Disko Bay, we began to really perceive what made this space so interesting to early explorers.
We sailed slowly by means of the bay, weaving between colossal icebergs and the huge mountain ranges that line the shore of Disko Bay itself.
It’s idyllic, and I don’t say that flippantly. We spent hours having fun with the view earlier than lastly reaching the realm round Oqaatsut, the place we meandered by means of the glacial channels in the direction of our subsequent cease: Eqip Sermia.
First, Eqip Sermia isn’t a city; it’s a glacial space with what can solely be described as an extremely big colossal ‘hanging glacier’. Actually, photographs and movies don’t do Eqip Sermia justice. It’s completely large.
Ocean Albatros anchored round 3-4 kilometres from the glacier itself, and inside no time in any respect, we boarded one of many zodiacs to get a more in-depth look.
We weaved our manner by means of the slush and growlers (like small icebergs) and acquired ever nearer to the glacier itself. Naturally, the expedition group from Albatros left a secure hole.
It’s so tempting to need to get nearer to the glacier, and I’ve to confess I used to be like, ‘Can we go nearer to the motion?’ however there’s a very good motive you keep far again.
The wall of ice always strikes and calves proper into Disko Bay itself, inflicting big chunks of the glacier to crash into Disko Bay with none warning.
We noticed this occur about 5 instances throughout our few hours right here, and the crashing sound, waves, and destruction had been so colossal. It’s extremely stunning to see, however additionally it is a really harmful atmosphere that should at all times be handled with respect.
After our zodiac journey, we headed again onboard Ocean Albatros and straight to dinner on the highest deck. With the solar shining, the wonderful catering group onboard hosted a BBQ overlooking Eqip Sermia. It was a feast (each for our eyes and tummies).
We spent the subsequent few hours chatting with fellow passengers and the manager crew whereas watching Eqip Sermia calve in real-time. The entire expertise was mind-blowing and one which I actually received’t overlook.
By the point we’d end nattering (yeah, we discuss so much), Ocean Albatros had risen in anchor, and we began our journey again by means of the glacial valley in the direction of our subsequent cease: Ilulissat.
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