Most bakers know that a sweltering summer time kitchen can wreak havoc on a recipe, however a lesser-known reality is that chilly winter kitchens could cause simply as a lot bother—albeit of a distinct type. When kitchen temperatures dip beneath 70°F (21°C), pie and cookie doughs can find yourself dry and crumbly, layer truffles can dome and end up riddled with tunnels and holes, buttercreams can curdle, and breads can refuse to rise.
These points can manifest in refined methods when it is solely 68°F—so refined that you could be merely write them off as a fluke—however they will develop extra excessive because the temperature drops. It is not simply that there is a chill within the air; it is that any given thermostat setting represents the temperature of our pantry staples and gear, like flour, sugar, and mixing bowls.
That is why cranking up the warmth or firing up the oven is not an answer. The air temperature could immediately heat to a toasty 72°F, however deep in your pantry, that bag of flour will nonetheless be 65°F (or regardless of the case could also be). Happily, you possibly can sidestep these issues altogether if you realize which strategies they’re more likely to have an effect on.
Creaming Methodology
Many cake and cookie recipes will name for creaming the butter and sugar till “fluffy and light-weight.” The creaming course of will take for much longer than indicated whenever you’re working with chilly components and gear, so abandon any estimated timetable and keep on with the visible cues. Give it time for the butter and sugar to melt and aerate—in any other case, even a easy espresso cake can wind up dense and gummy alongside the underside, or else pocked with holes.
If a kitchen is really chilly, beneath 65°F (18°C), the method will possible stall out, leaving the butter and sugar smeared across the bowl as a thick, heavy paste that can refuse to budge. In that case, I will escape my culinary torch to hit the blending bowl with a delicate flame (three cheers for chrome steel!) to assist loosen the butter. If you do not have one, seize a hair dryer, or set the bowl over a steaming water tub for just some seconds to melt, not soften, the butter.
Alternatively, warming the sugar to about 70°F earlier than creaming can assist mimic the situations of a extra temperate kitchen. Merely pop a dish of sugar right into a low oven for a minute or two, and let it calm down when you overshoot that focus on temperature. And when you occur to neglect about it, don’t fret—that is how I “invented” toasted sugar.
Emulsifying Eggs
Within the realm of baking, most recipes name for “room-temperature” eggs, however the soiled secret of recipe improvement is that “room temperature” often means 70°F. So, whatever the precise temperature in your kitchen, that is the temperature you must purpose for when warming up the eggs. In a bowl of scorching faucet water (say, 110°F/43°C), it’ll take about three minutes to heat up as many eggs.
Lots of my cookie recipes (akin to my old style chocolate chip cookies) could name for eggs “straight from the fridge” as a way of controlling dough temperature to maintain issues cool. After all, that is not needed in a chilly setting, so take into account warming the eggs to 70°F when you need assistance offsetting the consequences of including chilly components, like flour and chocolate, afterward.
Kneading Pastry
It is tempting to assume {that a} pie dough wants extra water when it feels stiff, crumbly, and dry in winter months. However whenever you’re coping with issues brought on by environmental situations, altering the system will not handle the underlying challenge; it will solely create new issues. In pie dough, for instance, extra water means extra gluten improvement, and that makes pie doughs robust and vulnerable to shrinking as they bake. So please, do not modify the recipe—modify the dough temperature.
This may be achieved by merely utilizing 70°F water as an alternative of the chilly water most recipes name for. If it is actually frigid in your kitchen, warming the flour to about 70°F can assist, too—toss it in a low oven, and let it calm down when you overshoot that objective. The perfect working temperature for pie dough is about 68°F (20°C), so the mix of tepid flour and chilly butter ought to common proper out. If the deed is already achieved, and also you’re caught with a chilly dough that cracks and crumbles when rolled, let it sit in a barely heat setting till it reaches about 68°F, then strive once more.
Whipping Buttercream
Whether or not you are making a basic Swiss meringue buttercream or the custard-based cream cheese buttercream from my guide, a chilly buttercream is a curdled buttercream. Even after they do not appear like cottage cheese, chilly buttercreams have a greasy mouthfeel, and their stiff consistency makes them tough to unfold over a cake.
If that occurs to you, place the bowl of buttercream over a steaming water tub till it begins to soften across the edges, then return it to the stand mixer and whip till easy. This may be repeated as wanted to realize a superbly easy, silky-soft consistency.
Proofing Bread
Most recipes for yeast-raised breads embody particulars for creating the perfect proofing setting, however many others name for proofing the bread at room temperature. When that falls nicely beneath 70°F, the dough will take for much longer to rise, which is okay by me. My choice is to flow and pay nearer consideration to a recipe’s visible cues, akin to when my cinnamon roll dough rises till it is mild sufficient to retain a shallow impression when gently poked.
If you would like to hurry issues up in a yeast-raised dough, strive bringing the flour to about 70°F earlier than getting began. Hotter liquids can assist, too, however that may be a riskier transfer, because it has the potential to hurt the yeast. In any other case, your greatest guess is to create a hotter setting for the dough. My favourite trick is to microwave a mug of water till it is boiling-hot, then flip off the microwave and pop within the bowl of dough, basically turning the microwave itself right into a cheater’s proof field.
With any of those steps, the objective is to not get issues scorching however to extra carefully mimic the situations of a 70°F setting, so restraint is vital. For the reason that underlying downside is a baking setting that is just a bit chilly, there is not any must go to extremes. A delicate nudge by a couple of levels in the precise course is all we have to conquer the chilly.